our trip to madura this weekend was like a train wreck from start to finish. (note: no trains were harmed in the making of this blog post) it all started with kim, which i mentioned in my last post… she had surgery thursday morning for kidney stones. routine procedure. it went well. kidney stones gone. we got on our bus and left shortly after lunch. by late that afternoon, it became obvious that kim was not doing so well. we are still not sure if a mistake was made on the part of the doctors or if kim just reacted very negatively to the anesthesia. at about 4 o’clock, we got word that her blood pressure had dropped dangerously low, she had been placed on oxygen, and though she was conscious, she couldn’t hear anything. by 8, they had called in the family. ron, her husband, made plans to come early the next morning from sumatra to be with her. we were hundreds of kilometers away, and there was nothing we could do except pray.
we arrived in madura at about 11 with no further word on kim. however, within 30 minutes, GT got word that his fiance’s father had died. pak tukiman had been a driver for our school for many, many years, so all the teachers and many of the students knew him. he had been in and out of hospitals for the last 2 years, so his death wasn’t entirely unexpected, but he had been doing somewhat better lately. GT made plans to head right back home by bus early the next morning. poor guy spent the last two weeks driving to aceh and back, only to arrive in madura, then have to go straight back home!
friday morning, GT left, and we got word that kim had not improved overnight, so she was being med-evacuated to singapore to be put on a ventilator. but nobody could contact ron. so with even more prayers being said, we headed to the local middle school to teach english. our experience at that school was great! the kids did a fantastic job teaching things like action verbs, emotions, conversation questions, and several other things.
their students responded well, and they even took time to sing and play music for us!
after we got back from the middle school, a small group of us went directly to a local nursing school where we practiced conversational english with the university students there. they were excited to have foreigners come visit them!
on our way back from the nursing school, we got a phone call from someone at the middle school we had been at earlier. she called to tell us that the police were there questioning them about our visit, and they wanted to know our REAL reasons for being in madura. she said that they were sending some officers to our hotel to talk to us. once we got back, jesse immediately went in search of yohanes to translate for him. i went back to my room to change out of my long sleeves, pants, and head covering (madura is roughly a billion degrees), but something told me not to. so i left my room, planning to wander to the beach. instead, i found nasreen and two police officers walking toward me. then we began to play 20 questions, which was not so much a fun guessing game as it was two surly cops asking me 20 very pointed questions and me trying my best to give 20 very polite, complete, and unincriminating answers. luckily, nasreen stuck around to translate. an eternity later, jesse and yohanes found us and took over. it seemed there were two options at this point: either they would make us pay them a lot of money (which we would not do) or they would make us leave.
in the meantime, some students had gone to the beach with no shoes and had actually WALKED ON CORAL! like, open your eyes? so on top of everything else, we now had blood and deep cuts to contend with. nasreen and dan, two of the seniors on our trip, opened up a little patching up shop with the bus first aid kit, and i came to help after my encounter with the police. everyone was fixed up in no time.
then some students and i walked across the street to a little food stall to eat lunch. unfortunately, nearly all the other students NOT involved in the interrogation – spectating or otherwise – had the same idea. can’t blame them, given that it was the only place to eat for 100 meters. and that is a far distance in the blazing heat. there were only four tables in there, and they were totally packed out, so the owner invited us to go next door and wait for our order there. wearily, we marched out of the warung, glad for a place to sit. and then we realized that next door was a mosque. and we’re not exactly halal. so we went back inside to ask the proprietor if that was REALLY what he meant, and he said ya, ga pa pa (no problem). we could eat there. so we all kind of looked at each other with that “what do we do now?” look in our eyes, and we wandered back outside. in a sudden burst of good vision, one of the students noticed some rickety looking benches in the shade along the side of the mosque, so we all sat back there instead. while waiting 45 minutes for our food, we spent quite a bit of time in prayer for all the things that were heavy on our heart that day, and it was an awesome and encouraging time… i love our students!
whew… this is getting long… stick with me…
shortly after we finished praying, jesse and yo came over to eat, and we were able to ask them about the police visit. like He always does, God worked things out and softened the heart of the police. they took copies of everyone’s IDs and told us that before we come next time, we needed to report to them. whew… that situation could have been a WHOLE lot worse, and in fact, everyone who has heard about it has been amazed that it wasn’t any worse! apparently, madurese police are known for their corruption – and indonesia is the second most corrupt country in the world! go, us…
while walking back across the street after lunch, we encountered an unusual scene – two parents beating their teenage daughter in the street. she was screaming and sobbing and laying in the road. they were trying to drag her out of the road while landing a few punches here and there while they were at it. right as we arrived, a teenage boy sped off on a motor bike, and we heard it rumored later that they had been caught together at the hotel. this is a bigger deal in muslim culture than i can even begin to describe to you. worthy of beating your daughter in the street in front of everybody. of course, nobody touched the boy… it was a very awkward situation though as we stood there trying to figure out how we could help, but quickly realizing that as foreigners, there was absolutely nothing we could do.
the students spent some time at the beach that day, and about 30 students from yet another school came to hang out with them and practice conversation. i crashed for 2 hours at this point from sheer emotional exhaustion, but i heard that many, many good conversations were had, and some students told me that this time was the most meaningful – and their favorite – part of the entire trip.
that evening, we drove to a nearby town to have dinner. there were WAY more food options there! and nobody had to be asked to sit in a mosque! as long as the students stayed in non-coed groups of three or more, they were safe to go wherever they wanted. we also left plenty of time for them to be able to hang out and meet people. there is a large muslim school nearby, so there were LOTS of opportunities to meet other middle/high school students. and they did! it seemed that everywhere i went around town, i would find a group of our students surrounded by a group of indonesian students! i myself was thronged by a group of second graders… not sure how that happened? maybe because my vocabulary is right about at their level. all their parents were food vendors nearby, so they were basically left to their own devices all night long. we had fun singing songs, counting in english and madurese, and talking about our families. they were super fantastic! when we had to leave, about 40 little kids paraded with us through the streets to our bus, cheering and singing and waving goodbye.
the following morning, we packed up all our things, checked out of our hotel, and drove to a local pesantren (muslim school) where we again taught english.
this school was night and day different from the school the day before… of course, this one was still noisy and chaotic, but it was also MUCH less respectful, especially toward women. the male students (and even some teachers!) were very disrespectful and even perverted, coming onto our female students and even me in very inappropriate ways – especially for muslim culture! it was unfortunate and very disappointing. even as a teacher, i was scared to go anywhere by myself in this school. it was VERY male dominated – the girls didn’t talk or participate in class at all. but AFTER the teaching, when we got time to just hang out with them girl-to-girl, they really opened up. we spent about 2 hours there after classes talking to them, getting to know them, sharing with them, and exchanging email addresses.
we left to come home after our time at the pesantren. by this point, we knew that GT had made it home safely and that kim was in more stable condition, but that she had an infection in her lungs (which turned out to be double pneumonia – she’ll be in ICU in singapore for several more days, but her entire family is with her now. please keep them in your prayers!). so spirits were much higher coming home. God has a way of working everything out.
after we crossed the suramadu (the bridge from madura to java) – which is one of the longest bridges in the world! – we stopped to change clothes. nobody really wanted to wear their muslim garb the entire way home – especially not the girls! so we stopped at a gas station. since there was one bathroom, 11 girls, and 25 guys, we decided that the guys would all change on the bus, and the girls would all change in the bathroom. to get to the bathroom, you had to walk through a sliding metal door into a 9’ x 12’ tiled room. in the back of this room were 2 doors. one led to a toilet stall and one led to a musholla. the toilet was occupied. by our bus driver. who had the runs. roughly 5 minutes later, he finally came out. we all decided quickly that none of us wanted to go in after him, so we closed that door behind him, made sure nobody was in the musholla, and decided to slide the big door shut and all change at once in the tile room. so we did. and when we finished, we found that we were locked in. in the 100 degree bathroom. that didn’t have windows. that smelled foul. luckily, a jaga came with a key (on his 5th or 6th try!) and freed us. gas station air never smelled so sweet.
i am happy to report that the bathroom incident was the last of our misadventures. we got home safely at 2 sunday morning. we’re all a little tired and cranky today. some more than others. me more than others. but in the words of my dad, which became my motto for this entire trip, God is bigger.
